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|   .    v        |:/   jeremy@   |                                           |
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| "Kuching" ::                                           [2010-02-08 02:05AM] |
|                                                                             |
| We spent this weekend in Kuching, capital of Sarawak, which is the largest  |
| state of Malaysia.  Like Western Australia it is the largest but most       |
| sparsely populated state, and is situated to the south of the other East    |
| Malaysian state of Sabah (with Brunei sandwiched in between), and to the    |
| north of the Indonesian part of Borneo.  We stayed in the Tune Hotel,       |
| which is a chain owned by the same group as Air Asia, and with much the     |
| same philosophy - pay extra for the frills (which are meals for the         |
| airline, and towels and air conditioning for the hotel).  But the bed was   |
| comfy and it was situated right on the riverfront - indeed, opposite the    |
| Hilton.                                                                     |
|                                                                             |
| On our first day we took in the sights on the waterfront, which included a  |
| colonial English courthouse and jail, a couple of brightly-coloured Chinese |
| temples and an ethnological museum (Chinese of various ethnicities form     |
| close to a majority in Kuching). Then after lunch we took a tambang (a      |
| small, mostly oar-powered ferry) across the river to the spectacular        |
| hat-shaped legislative building, for a fare of 40 sen each (less than 15    |
| cents).                                                                     |
|                                                                             |
| We then did a spot of shopping, and it struck me that there are some        |
| things commonly sold here that we will never, in a million years, buy; for  |
| example, margarine (I think) is sold unrefrigerated from open vats, beside  |
| mounds of preserved fish and over-ripe fruit over which flies buzz.  In     |
| the more touristy pedestrian mall of Jalan India, sexual pills and potions  |
| are sold from open briefcases (for a quick getaway, I presume); most        |
| prominent is a botanical paste called Gambir Sarawak, but also knock-offs   |
| of the V and C drugs (I won't spell out their names here to avoid lowering  |
| my pagerank!).                                                              |
|                                                                             |
| The locals are more friendly than in KL, with many of them greeting us      |
| (not only Doyle, which we're used to) with a cheery hello.  In one case,    |
| admittedly, a youth greeted me with the more dubious "Hello, Orang Putih"   |
| (white person), to which I was sorely tempted to reply "Hello, Orang        |
| Melayu!"                                                                    |
|                                                                             |
| The next day we took a coach to the Sarawak Cultural Village.  Sarawak is   |
| Malaysia's most multicultural state, where Muslims are in the minority,     |
| and a variety of indigenous inhabitants still live and practice their       |
| traditions.  The Cultural Village showcased these minorities through        |
| recreations of their houses, inside which locals were practising their      |
| traditional arts: cooking biscuits, grinding rice or tapioca, blowing       |
| darts, threshing pepper, forging swords, dancing and making music.  All     |
| this in a steamy rainforest between mountain and sea, where red-winged      |
| dragonflies hovered and wood-boring insects the size of birds buzzed.  A    |
| cultural performance featuring dances from all the ethnic groups rounded    |
| out the attraction.                                                         |
|                                                                             |
| It was a little sad to consider how much of this culture was lost when the  |
| country embraced Islam, which has certainly made as much of a mark on       |
| Malaysia as the secular West, and not all for the better.  Indeed, the      |
| traditional practices of the local ethnic groups are still being            |
| marginalised by the government, which for example still has an active       |
| policy of resettling the nomadic Penan tribes into towns (why am I put in   |
| mind of Australia of the early-to-mid 20th century?)                        |
|                                                                             |
| My lunch at the Village was Sarawak laksa, a noodle soup, slightly milder   |
| than the Penang variety, but fragrant with coconut milk and coriander, and  |
| brimming with shredded chicken, bean sprouts, strings of egg and prawns.    |
| Another specialty we tried on this trip was kolo mee: a noodle dish         |
| featuring both minced and sliced pork, a meat which is much rarer on our    |
| side of Malaysia. We also learned about, but weren't brave enough to try,   |
| Chinese birds-nest soup, which - yes - is a real birds nest, or rather the  |
| remains of which after the twigs and feathers are removed: to be precise,   |
| the bird's solidified saliva. Rather more appetising are the                |
| rainbow-coloured kuei lapis (layer cakes) that are a local speciality; real |
| cake, too, rather than the glutinous jelly that is sold under the same name |
| in KL.                                                                      |
|                                                                             |
|                                                          reply (0 comments) |
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| "sadlittlewebjournal 2.9.2 released" ::                [2010-02-02 04:35AM] |
|                                                                             |
| Since it was a public holiday today, I put the time to good use by (a)      |
| fixing our front door; and (b) releasing another point version of the       |
| software that runs this blog, sadlittlewebjournal.  This version fixes a    |
| few annoyances - that the facility to post by email didn't work with        |
| complex MIME emails (for example, mine are digitally signed), that the RSS  |
| feed didn't preserve the line feeds in the original post, and that special  |
| characters such as € didn't come out correctly.  Additionally, I have also  |
| improved the comment spam filtering in this release.  Download from the     |
| link below, and please let me know if you have any difficulties.            |
|                                                                             |
| [related link]                                           reply (2 comments) |
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| "The Netherlands" ::                                   [2010-01-13 05:39AM] |
|                                                                             |
| The last country we visited on our European holiday this year was the       |
| Netherlands.  We stayed at the home of two expat friends from Australia,    |
| now living in Amsterdam but currently on holiday back home.  One of them    |
| is an amateur interior designer, so their classy apartment looks like       |
| something straight out of a catalogue!                                      |
|                                                                             |
| Amsterdam is a city built around a series of concentric canals.  Walking    |
| around them takes you around some beautiful old gabled buildings and        |
| churches, as well as the infamous Red Light District - which I encountered  |
| largely by accident when women in lingerie or swimsuits started looming     |
| out of the windows as I walked by.  However the closest I got to seeing     |
| the inside of one of these red-lit apartments was a mock-up in a nearby     |
| museum (honest!).                                                           |
|                                                                             |
| Amsterdam's inner city is, to be frank, probably a bit too touristy,        |
| without any free museums or galleries that we could find (even most of its  |
| churches have been converted to other uses), and it is overcrowded with     |
| "coffeeshops" (which sell more joints and space cakes than coffee - magic   |
| mushrooms are also legally sold).  So after I'd had my fill of the inner    |
| city I ventured out to a nearby suburb, away from the tourist crowds, to    |
| soak in some warmth at a local sauna.                                       |
|                                                                             |
| Because we were staying in an apartment with a kitchen, we cooked most of   |
| our meals - but trying to choose local dishes and ingredients where         |
| possible.  These included, on our first night, meatballs with stamppot,     |
| which is a mixture of mashed potato and spinach, and "bitterballen" which   |
| seem to be little crumbed and fried balls of a gravy-like mixture.  (OK,    |
| we didn't make that at home; we had it at McDonalds.)                       |
|                                                                             |
| We also had an unexpected taste of home in Amsterdam, because of the        |
| Indonesian culinary influence that was inherited from Holland's colonial    |
| past.  This is found in the number of Indonesian restaurants, in the        |
| serving of satay sauce rather than gravy with meat (though it's quite       |
| awful compared to the real thing), and even in the name of one of the       |
| country's biggest seasonal markets - "pasar malam besar"!                   |
|                                                                             |
|                                                          reply (0 comments) |
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| "Denmark" ::                                           [2010-01-03 04:01AM] |
|                                                                             |
| Yesterday we ended our stay in Copenhagen, Denmark - our first time in      |
| Scandinavia.  Perhaps not the best time of year to visit, with -5           |
| temperatures in the day and many of the attractions closed or with shorter  |
| hours, but that just gave us the opportunity to spend more time indoors.    |
| Our first day was spent exploring  the Rosenborg Slot and Frederiksborg     |
| Slot (no, not casinos - "slot" just means palace).  Both are beautiful      |
| Renaissance castles brimming with rare furniture and art, including some    |
| particularly fine tapestries and carved ceilings.  Rosenborg also           |
| displayed Denmark's crown jewels, including not only some magnificent       |
| crowns and sceptres, but also some amazingly intricate ivory and amber      |
| carvings.                                                                   |
|                                                                             |
| The next day I did a walking tour, leaving Dom at home, and took in         |
| everything from the Amalienborg Palace (where the Australian princess Mary  |
| Donaldson lives), to the famous Little Mermaid statue.  I was frozen        |
| through by mid-afternoon, so finished the day in one of Copenhagen's        |
| heated public baths... mmm.                                                 |
|                                                                             |
| As the home of Bang & Olufsen (and, uh, Lego), Danish architecture is a     |
| mixture of old European and modern design. Further out of the city, Danish  |
| houses reminded me rather a lot of those from New England and the other     |
| east coast states of America - though presumably the influence goes in the  |
| other direction, from the North European immigrants to the USA.             |
|                                                                             |
| We also had a day trip to Mälmo, the third largest city in Sweden which is  |
| a short train ride from Copenhagen. Again we spent most of our time         |
| indoors, wandering through the natural history and science museums, and the |
| Mälmohus which is Scandanavian's oldest castle. The other Swedish food that |
| we tried (meatballs and boiled potatoes) were rather similar to what we've  |
| previously had at Ikea!                                                     |
|                                                                             |
| Danish food in comparison wasn't so well suited to the winter weather.      |
| Their speciality is the smörrebröd or open sandwich, and Danish pastries    |
| aren't really Danish - here they call them wienerbröd or "Viennese bread".  |
| The locals seem to prefer immigrant food - Turkish shawarma (which we would |
| call kebabs) and hot dogs. However we did have a nice pork roast with       |
| potatoes, followed by a waffle and ice cream, at a Danish chain in Sweden.  |
|                                                                             |
|                                                          reply (0 comments) |
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| "Germany" ::                                           [2010-01-05 01:34AM] |
|                                                                             |
| We saw in 2010 in the Bavarian capital of Munich. The old city is full of   |
| beautiful architecture, though much of is has been reconstructed after its  |
| destruction in the Second World War. We took a free walking tour on our     |
| first day in the city, which included stops at an enormous cathedral called |
| the Frauenkirche, the elaborate gothic town hall, and the Hofbräuhaus, the  |
| most famous beer house in Munich. We stopped there for lunch of sausages    |
| and sauerkraut, before wandering down to the Hausderkunst, an art gallery   |
| opened during the Third Reich, but currently exhibiting a Chinese modern    |
| artist.                                                                     |
|                                                                             |
| I was last in Germany in around 1982 with my parents, and my two main       |
| memories are visiting the castles of King Ludwig II, and eating at an       |
| inordinate number of konditorei (pastry shops), with which my dad was quite |
| obsessed. This particular obsession is one to which I can easily relate - I |
| finished off our first day in Munich with the perfect torte - sweet         |
| chocolate cake, set off with tart raspberries in jelly, with a crisp        |
| shortbread base. Dom was hungrier than I and so started with a cheesy egg   |
| noodle dish with fried onions ("bergspätzle") followed with authentic apple |
| strudel.                                                                    |
|                                                                             |
| As for King Ludwig's castles, the following day we took a train out to his  |
| family castle Hohenschwangau, and the "fairy tale" castle Neuschwanstein    |
| that the mad king constructed nearby and which is best known as the         |
| inspiration for the Disney castle.  We took a horse drawn carriage ride to  |
| the gates of the first, and hiked from there to the second.  Though         |
| neither castle was open for tours when we arrived, the exteriors were       |
| impressive enough.                                                          |
|                                                                             |
| The next day we went straight to the airport, which is of little note       |
| other than that it gave us occasion to try a schnitzel and pretzel for      |
| lunch, but I should mention the saga of our illnesses.  We've been          |
| suffering colds and flu almost over our entire trip, and my own symptoms    |
| have lately been getting worse.  The pharmacist in the UK to whom I went    |
| for a remedy didn't want to sell me anything stronger than paracetemol.     |
| I'm glad to say his counterpart in Germany was much more enthusiastic: I    |
| walked away with one set of pills for congestion, another for aches and     |
| inflammation, a nasal spray, and a cough syrup, plus a set of tissues       |
| thrown in.  Thank goodness for German efficiency.                           |
|                                                                             |
|                                                          reply (1 comments) |
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